This is the story of our journey along the famous Camino de Santiago in May of 2025. I had friends who had walked the entire length, all 33 stages, the previous year, but since I was not yet retired, I could not join them. I mentioned their adventure to my sister Lil, and she said that walking the Camino pilgrimage appealed to her. I made some plans. Rather than doing the entire 33 stages, I opted to do the first seven stages and the final five stages, skipping the 21 stages in between. The plan was to walk 170 miles doing the best sections of the Camino Frances in two weeks, traveling from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. Starting in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, we crossed the French / Spanish border, then tackled the high mountains and deep valleys of The Pyrenees before crossing through undulating plains and olive groves to the bustling and typically Spanish city of Logroño. From Logroño we took a train to León for a rest day, and then another train to Sarria a day later. From Sarria, we hiked the final 100km needed to qualify for the Compostela pilgrim's certificate. We attended the final Pilgrims' Mass, then flew back home via Paris.
I am pleased with how our plans turned out. If we had only done the final five stages of the Camino, I don't think we would have experienced the comraderie of the other pilgrims - the large number of pilgrims on the final
five stages seems to result in fewer interactions with the other walkers. I really enjoyed meeting people in the beginning stages, and then when we bumped into them again further down the Camino, it was like reuniting with a long lost friend. However, I also
glad we didn't attempt to do the entire 33 stages. I think walking by the endless fields and open landscape of the middle stages would have become monotonous. For me, doing the "best twelve" stages of the Camino turned out to be the right choice.
(But I would say that, wouldn't I?) I have nothing but admiration for those pilgrims who do walk the entire 33 stages - it takes great mental fortitude as well as toughness to walk all 500 miles. Hats off to all pilgrims that walk the entire route!
Though an ancient walking route, the Camino de Santiago really surged in popularity in the early 90s due to efforts from tourism boards and motivated individuals dedicated to the Camino. In 1993 the route was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site Art: Take off from Seattle at 6:35 PM on Delta #80 Lil: Take off from Fort Wayne at 5:35 PM on American #5726 Art: Land in Paris at 1:40 PM Lil: Land in Paris at 12:40 PM Extra day in Paris as buffer in case flights are delayed Walk 14.9 miles/ 24 Km from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles Walk 13.6 miles/ 22 Km from Roncesvalles to Zubiri Walk 13 miles/ 22 Km from Zubiri to Pamplona Walk 14.3 miles/ 23 Km from Pamplona to Puente La Reina Lodging: Hotel Jakue Two beds. $82 Walk 13.7 miles/ 22 Km from Puente La Reina to Estella Lodging: Hostería de Curtidores $59. Two beds Walk 12.4 miles/ 20 Km from Estella to Los Arcos Walk 17.5 miles/ 28 Km from Los Arcos to Logroño Tour León 4:59 PM departure for a 4 hour train from León to Sarria Change trains: 20 min transfer. Arrive Sarria at 9:02 PM Walk 14.9 miles/ 24 Km from Sarria to Portomarín Walk 14.9 miles/ 24 Km from Portomarín to Palas de Rei Walk 17.3 miles/ 28.9 Km from Palas de Rei to Arzúa Walk 13.5 miles/ 22 Km from Arzúa to Amenal Walk 9.5 miles/ 15 Km from Amenal to Santiago de Compostela Take 20 minute city bus to SCQ Santiago airport Lil: take off from Paris at 10:30 AM Art: take off from Paris at 4:00 PM Art: land in Seattle at 5:45 PM Lil: land in Fort Wayne at 10:45 PM
Itinerary
Sunday May 11 2025
Monday May 12 2025
Tuesday May 13 2025
Wednesday May 14 2025
St. Jean Pied de Port
Take TGV inoui train from Paris to Bayonne 6:56 AM to 11:03 AM (4 hrs 7 min) $217.95
1 hr 32 min layover in Bayonne
Take Ter L54 train from Bayonne to St Jean Pied de Port 12:35 PM to 1:40 PM (1 hr 5 min)
Lodging: Gite Compostella. Two twin beds. $78. +€20 for sheets.
Thursday May 15 2025
Roncevalles
Luggage transfer service Jacotrans for €7 per day / per bag
Friday May 16 2025
Zubiri
Saturday May 17 2025
Pamplona
Sunday May 18 2025
Puente La Reina
Monday May 19 2025
Estella
Tuesday May 20 2025
Los Arcos
Wednesday May 21 2025
Logroño
Thursday May 22 2025
León
4 hour 1 min train ride from Logroño to León $89. 35 min transfer in Miranda de Ebro. Leave 12:53 PM, arrive 4:54 PM
Lodging: Crisol Riosol. 1 block from train station. Two beds. $160
Friday May 23 2025
León
Saturday May 24 2025
Sarria
Sunday May 25 2025
Portomarin
Monday May 26 2025
Palas de Rei
Tuesday May 27 2025
Arzúa
Wednesday May 28 2025
Amenal
Thursday May 29 2025
Santiago de Compostela
Friday May 30 2025
Paris
Saturday May 31 2025
